Goldsmiths' Fair 2008

“The annual Goldsmith’s Fair is the
perfect place to find, try and buy
some fabulous pieces of silver-
smithing and precious metal jewellery
of lasting beauty...”

WE WERE LOOKING FOR NEW TALENT and innovation at this year's annual Goldsmiths' Fair — and we were not disappointed. With the Fair now run over two weeks (22 September to 5 October), not only could more people attend but, by allowing a second, different set of exhibitors for the second week, a greater number of talented craftsmen were able to display their designs and creations.

In all there were 160 designer/makers tempting you with their wares, making the Goldsmiths' Fair the perfect place to buy those extra special pieces of individual silverware and jewellery.

Visitors were able to take the opportunity to try on anything that appealed — a welcome move, as jewellery is meant to be worn and only actually comes alive next to the skin.

Many feel, mistakenly, that jewellery should be confined to special occasions and belongs to the glamour of a bygone age. However, a stylish and modern piece of jewellery — be it a necklace, brooch, earrings or watch — can lift the spirits to carry one through the working day. Likewise, using a beautiful piece of silver — perhaps to display just a single flower on your dressing table or to pour the forbidden cream onto your breakfast porridge — can bring immense enjoyment.

Across the whole Fair — especially compared to most high street offerings — the designs and craftsmanship are in a different and much higher league; pieces at the Goldsmiths' Fair are produced by the leaders of silversmithing and jewellery in the country.

This development comes from most of the ten new sponsored young designers bolstered, encouragingly, by the established 'craftsmen'. The term is used for both sexes as applying a gender creates an ugly word totally inappropriate to the arts and crafts — in fact, I have a sneaking impression that the females may actually be leading the innovation stakes. Sex aside, the Goldsmiths' Company's sponsorship scheme is obviously very successful, as clearly evidenced by the exhibits, and helps to keep the craftsmanship in the trade both vibrant and exciting. Which is good news for everyone, not least the customers.

The Fair takes place in the elegant Goldsmiths' Hall in the heart of the City of London, close to St. Paul's Cathedral. As such, there is no more fitting a setting for such irresistible and stunning silverware and jewellery.

Highlights from this year's event include:

Olivia Lowe

Olivia Lowe (olivialowe.co.uk) — Olivia's silver vases take on a new format by examining the physical requirements of a container for cut flowers and by exploring how the form of the container can dictate or affect the arrangement of the blooms. The resulting composition is one in which the metal and the flowers combine to form a single, sculptural 'object of beauty' — just right for a side-, dressing- or dining table. Or just anywhere. Olivia also created a wonderful orchid brooch designed to hold a single dainty flower — a snip at Ł160.

David McCaul (davidmccaul.com) — The display of a line-up of rings in the glass cabinet could have been missed but for the fluidity and movement in the forms that gave something, but not a lot, away. You really have to try on David's exquisite rings to even begin to appreciate them.

David McCaul

His work is highly original and whilst each ring is easily wearable for the occasion it is designed for, they transcend the traditional format and become a conversation piece in their own right. David's rings sensuously caress the contours of the hand and fingers with sweeping curves, accentuated by tiny sparkling gems — some say, in a way that is pure Sex in the City! Be warned, once you try them on there is no turning back.

Momoko Kumai

Momoko Kumai (nakmus@hotmail.com) — It is a pity that Momoko does not have a website yet as she is another star. Her jewellery is best described as small pieces of engineering using very precise relationships between the frequently numerous elements in each piece. One bracelet — made of three teardrop shapes swivelled together in six layers of three in nickel silver — was slightly reminiscent of piston rings. However, seen in the metal the shapes are far more complex, with sinuous curves as successful as those created by the great Finnish designer Alvar Alto. Very striking and stylish and Yes, beautiful.

Momoko's designs involve the illusion of perpetual movement so that the image will be ever-changing relative to the angle from which it is viewed. Her use of subtle gold colour variations suggest a degree of fluidity within the structure and it's an effect that's particularly successful with her earrings.

Definitely one to watch, as she will assuredly go far.

Ray Walton

Ray Walton (raywaltonsilversmith.co.uk) —
Ray makes small boxes that, in addition to being functional, have a tremendous sense of fun. Within his designs he explores a theme of 'spirals', using gilding and patination to add colour and texture — silver, gilded or bronze, one could imagine them being used as delightful chequered chess pieces. His other little boxes enhanced by fossilised ammonite lids set in silver and wood are also very appealing — not just for their beauty but also for the prices of around Ł300.

Kerry O'Connor (kerryoconnor.co.uk) — Kerry is a very versatile designer specialising in silver and porcelain. Her sophisticated 'hand-made' products are sculptural yet functional; many of them of practical use on a table. Delightful little bowls with inventive, small slender spoons and sensuous ceramic and silver vases. Her 'Gaudi' style (my interpretation) vases are absolutely beautiful and I seriously covet one of the Wedgewood blue ones.

Rauni Higson

Rauni Higson (raunihigson.co.uk) — Rauni is an enthusiastic silversmith and she is currently experimenting with 'fold-forming': folding sheet metal and hammering it to distort the form. Her platter and three-tier cake/sweet-stand — rippled just like the sand dunes of the desert — reminded me of Salvador Dali's art. Amazing, tactile yet functional pieces that are almost too lovely to use and which in themselves would provide a stimulating talking point at any dinner party.

Will Evans

Will Evans (willevansjeweller.com) — Will incorporates fine gold inlay into his sophisticated pieces and this technique provides a contrast of colour and movement. He manages to reproduce the curves and shapes seen in nature, and is another craftsmen whose designs 'come to life' when they adorn the body — especially that of a sophisticated and discerning lady.

Josef Koppmann (josefkoppmann.com) — This designer obviously enjoys playing with symmetry and leans towards more geometrical shapes.

The textured, rich gold of his necklaces are offset by new coloured stones (such as transparent quartz) in which copper-coloured, black or golden needle formations create unique, breathtakingly beautiful patterns.

Josef Koppmann

If you want to make a dramatic statement, this is a designer for you.

William Cheshire (williamcheshire.com) — Working with precious metals and stones, William's jewellery is elegant and immediately pleasing.

His gold pendant made of two articulated wings highlighted by just one small gem was extremely attractive and just right for the modern women of today.

There is a huge range of jewellery at all price levels — both for men and women — and with the current trend of movement away from mass production and towards craftsmanship and individuality, Goldsmiths' Fair is the ideal place to track down something that is just that extra bit special.

The designers mentioned above are but a few of the many who are striving to give their public something stimulating, of lasting beauty and value. — Bonnie Stevens

Check out thegoldsmiths.co.uk and whoswhoingoldandsilver.com.

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