Taste of London 2008

“The Taste Festivals have now joined
the other highlights of the hedonistic
Summer Season such as Ascot,
Wimbledon and Henley. There is some-
thing about summer, sunshine, food
and drink that encourages us to gather
together to indulge ourselves —
and where better than in the attractive
surroundings of London’s Regent’s
Park...”

THIS YEAR OVER 40 OF THE CAPITAL'S TOP RESTAURANTS once again demonstrated their culinary talents, along with offerings from food and drink producers, and the opportunity, should you be so inclined, to take part in masterclasses, interactive demonstrations or just watch the ever-entertaining Antony Worrall-Thompson.

There is something at this festival to cater for everyone's particular taste and it really is the opportunity to be adventurous in the exploration of new flavours and sensations. Culinary delights were on offer from Thai, Chinese and Indian; not your everyday take-away food but sensational, fresh and refined dishes developed from their traditional base to give you a modern but new exciting taste experience. The spectacular array of possibilities was endless: Japanese, French, Italian, Spanish — you name it, and it was there.

Tamarind (www.tamarindrestaurant.com) is just one of these wonderful Indian restaurants offering a modern and light interpretation of Moghul cuisine — the opulent and luxuriant food served in the courts of Rajasthan. It was the first Indian restaurant in this country to attain a Michelin star and together with The Cinnamon Club (www.cinnamon
club.com) has certainly changed our perception of Indian dining. At The Cinnamon Club they have introduced a terrific four-course 'Summer Tasting Menu' teamed with suggested wine pairings for each course. An educational exercise both restaurants are adopting as, all too often, people think that they have to drink beer or lager with Indian food.

Somewhere that is justifiably filled all day is Aubaine (www.aubaine.co.uk), a sophisticated French restaurant where you can either stop off for breakfast or buy their home-baked bread and patisserie to take home. Lunch and dinner is equally popular, and if the delicious tangy seafood salad I tasted is anything to go by, I can see why! A delightful man called Berat tempted me to taste "L'Exotic" a light vanilla cream, fruit salad topped with vanilla crumble which was to die for.

I have to admit that many of you, including my two grown up children, will consider me a bit of a philistine when it comes to Japanese food — I have never enjoyed it. However, as James Bond famously remarked, never say never again. Morocco is supposed to be hip 'n' hot and I simply do not understand how they let the gorgeous Bubker Belkhit (Buba) escape to Moscow to learn the art of Japanese cooking with the Wolkow Family.

The Wolkow Family are amongst Moscow's top restaurateurs and when they decided to open Sumosan in London, Buba came too. Sumosan (www.sumosan.com) offers a mix of authentic and fusion Japanese cuisine and it really is Buba's individual interpretation stylishly presented. The roasted scallops in teriyaki sauce with enoki and shitake mushrooms was delicious, and the lamb furikaki amazing. Need I add that I am now a convert?

Perhaps much to the surprise of our European cousins, the British are now proving to be more than a force to be reckoned with worldwide. Young and seasoned British chefs are proving to be not only passionate about what they achieve but also extremely innovative, pushing the boundaries further and further. No wonder the inward looking French government are keen to have the EU provide legislation to protect what they consider is their heritage of classical traditional dishes.

A French chef who simply knocked my socks off was the charming — and, I have to admit, seductive (with his food of course) — Pascal Proyart of One-O-One (www.oneoone
restaurant.com). Many consider One-O-One with its legion of accolades to be the best fish restaurant in central London. But how do you describe such a master of culinary expertise who can cause fireworks of taste sensations in your mouth, each individual flavour and texture exploding in a precise order. Just like a conductor with his orchestra, Pascal's tremendous attention to detail guides you through the sensory experience. You can see why Pascal is so revered by food lovers.

Pascal's incredible palate was nurtured from a young age in Brittany, where his family have had restaurants for several generations and encouraged him to try different foods. He has worked with some of the top Michelin chefs in Paris and Belgium and I don't think I need to tell you how particular the Belgians are about their food. In his own words "The sea and cooking always have been a passion and a childhood dream. Let me take you on a gastronomic journey — from the encounter of the wonder of the sea with fish and crustaceans to the tastes of earth." If you have the opportunity to visit his restaurant, you will certainly not be disappointed.

It is always extremely gratifying to find a chef who makes you proud to be British and Aiden Byrne at The Dorchester does just that (www.thedorchester.com — The Grill at The Dorchester). Not only has Aiden joined the ranks of chefs who have changed the face of hotel cooking, he is one of the most interesting and must be one of the youngest to have gained a Michelin star — for the Adlard Restaurant in Norwich, when he was only 22 years old. Now in his early thirties, his enthusiasm for sourcing and promoting British produce is infectious. His historic — yes, really — chilled beetroot gazpacho with a melting avocado and lime sorbet was visually, and to the palate, one of the highlights. Stunning combinations of textures and tastes!

Watch out for Aiden's first book, due out in the Autumn — Aiden Byrne, Made in Great Britain. If his cooking is anything to go by, it will be a wonderful addition to any keen cook's library. I will certainly be getting a copy.

No culinary journey would be complete without a few more accolades. Gary Rhodes (www.rhodes24.co.uk) for his imaginative white tomato soup and Salt Yard (www.saltyard.co.uk) for delicious sweet acorn fed Iberico cured ham and delicately smoked monkfish. However, that said there are a few out there sitting on their laurels
who really do need to up the game in order to stay ahead.

Just one more mention: Bendgate, a cottage industry making innovative preserves and unusual chutneys in Settle in Yorkshire (www.bendgate.co.uk). Julia and her daughter develop many of their preserves from old recipes, updating and improving whenever required. Quite some of the most interesting combinations I have come across in quite a while. Unfortunately, their produce can only be purchased at their local markets in Yorkshire, and the market outside Partridges in London's Kings Road on Saturdays. So if you anywhere near either place, give them a try. You won't regret it.

Once again this year, a thoroughly enjoyable day and it is easy to see why "London has become one of the world's gastronomic capitals and Taste of London is a great show-case of how far we have come." Just one word of warning to anyone visiting any of the Taste Festivals, be aware that your 'Crowns' (purchased on entry for the food samples) are non-refundable, so do use up every single one. — Bonnie Stevens

Check out www.channel4.com/tastefestivals.

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